Why This Watch Matters

This ultra-thin Audemars Piguet wristwatch was not only retailed by Gübelin (complete with dial signature), it also comes with its original box, papers, and the check used to pay for it. This is not something you see often.

The Full Story

It’s always exciting when you come across a watch with double signature, so imagine our delight when we found this yellow-gold Audemars Piguet ultra-thin wristwatch with the signature of famed Swiss luxury retailer Gübelin. Founded in 1854, the retailer has proudly stamped its name on watches from Patek to Audemars Piguet. The example you see here is a reference 5043 from 1954 (later sold on December 4, 1954, as confirmed by Audemars Piguet). The ultra thin wristwatch is elegantly simple in design, and is powered by a caliber 2003 manual-winding AP movement (developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre and also adopted by Vacheron Constantin). This caliber was, for a while, the thinnest manual-winding movement on the market, measuring less than 2 mm. While the 14k yellow-gold mesh bracelet might not be original to the watch, the box, papers, original invoice, check (for $486.75 in 1954) certainly are. A double-signed wristwatch with complete set? Jackpot.

The Fine Print

Maker: Audemars Piguet (retailed by Gübelin)
Model: Ultra-Thin
Reference: 5043
Year: 1954
Case No: 5680
Material: 18k yellow-gold case, with 14k yellow-gold bracelet
Dimensions: 31 mm diameter; 4.6 mm thickness
Sapphire Crystal: No, plexiglass
Lume: No
Caliber: Caliber 2003 manual-winding movement
Bracelet/Strap: Unsigned 14k yellow-gold mesh bracelet
Lug Width: 17 mm
Box/Papers: Yes, complete with original box, certificate, invoice, check.

What we Love and What You Should Know

This watch is in fantastic condition. With crisp lugs and a full case, it has minimal signs of wear. There are signs of oxidation and discoloration on the case back but other than that, this watch is good to go. One thing to note is that the case opening shows signs of the watch being opened in the past. The watch was recently serviced and runs smoothly. The dial is in good condition with the exception of some light marks around the edges of the dial near the indexes. The 14k yellow-gold, unsigned bracelet is possibly later but this is often the case with these pieces. Complete with original box, papers, and a check for $486.75, written in 1954.