Why This Watch Matters

This simple and elegantly designed dress watch only gets better off the wrist, as the caseback is stamped "HERMÈS PARIS," where it was originally sold.

The Full Story

We love simple yet elegant Universal Genève dress watches, and this one is no exception. Universal Genève is often noted for more complex watches, like the Compax, Tri-Compax, and Polerouter. However, they also made some beautiful time-only watches as well, like this example we have here today. While many adventurous watch manufacturers in the 1960s and 1970s were challenging the status quo in the world of horology with proprietary case designs and advanced movement constructions, Universal Genève also focused its efforts on producing interesting dial designs to attract its customers.

Universal began a partnership with the high fashion brand Hermès all the way back in the 1930s, when early Universal Genève Compax watches were retailed by the Parisian firm. We know this thanks to Hermès ads prominently featuring Universal Genève chronographs, as well as double-signed vintage examples from the period. The watch we have for sale here is signed on the caseback by Hermès, showing a continuation of this partnership decades later. It's great to see the retailer signature tucked underneath rather than right on the dial for this clean and elegant dress watch.

The example you see here may appear to be nothing more than a simple, time-only dress watch at first glance. However, if you look more closely at the dial, you'll see the striking contrast of the painted Roman numeral hour markers and blued steel semi-leaf shaped handset. This Universal Genève is simply a wonderful example of classic and restrained watch design.

The Fine Print

Maker: Universal Genève
Model: N/A
Reference: 842101/07
Year: Circa 1970s
Case No: 2461263
Material: Stainless steel
Dimensions: 31mm diameter; 6mm thickness
Crystal: Plexiglass
Lume: No
Caliber: Universal Genève, manual-wound, caliber 42
Bracelet/Strap: Black calf leather
Lug Width: 16mm
Box/Papers: No

What we Love and What You Should Know

This Universal Genève is in overall excellent condition. The case is strong with scratches. The edges on the lugs are crisp. The caseback has a few scratches that appear to be from the case being opened. The numbers and "HERMÈS PARIS" retailer stamp on the caseback are still clearly visible.

The dial is in great condition with a very light patina. The white is nearly an eggshell color. The blued steel hands are in great condition with a light patina to the color.

The dial, case, crown, and movement are all signed by Universal Genève. This watch was photographed on a 140mm/5.5inch wrist.